Trip to Vaishno Devi

Poonam, my wife, had vowed to visit the Vaishno Devi shrine some 2 years back. After a lot of deliberation, mulling, allaying concerns of kids' ability to walk for 11-12 kms on a steep ridge, making sure they will be able to sustain the stamina against the strain with the added attraction of accompanying their friends, we finally embarked upon this pilgrimage.

We planned a 2 week trip to Delhi, Lucknow and Vaishnodevi. We did fine up to Delhi, stayed there for 2 days and moved on to Lucknow. On the way to Lucknow, Poonam had small accident at the Delhi Metro Station – the small pedestal at the security booth their slipped as she stepped over that. She fell down with the bag and hurt her foot. We managed with a pain-killer spray that I could thankfully get at New Delhi Railway Station. However, we realized and further confirmed with a Doctor in Lucknow that Poonam in fact had fractured her foot. The two day trip to Lucknow thus ended in a disaster. No outings, no shopping for Lucknavi Chiken Suit, no chaats – the kids were really upset with their mother for being a spoilsport.

Back in Delhi, we were in two minds. Can Poonam still make it to Vaishno Devi? She was burdened by that promise that she had made 2 years back and had planned meticulously for this trip. She was so close to reaching there and did not want to miss this opportunity. On the other hand, we knew that despite having the pony’s, despite the possibility of a priority darshan slip, the final leg is going to be quite messy. We Indians cannot live without that final stage jostling that perhaps gives an added kick to the entire darshan experience. It perhaps gives a heightened pleasure and a sense of renunciation. So, better sense prevailed after some debate and we finally decided to cancel Poonam’s ticket. The kids agreed to travel with me – we of course had the other family traveling with us, who had kids of the same age.

We had a pleasant trip to Jammu by Rajdhani Express and we hired a cab there to go to Katra – the base for Vaishno Devi. It was early in the morning and hence was quite pleasant. We started the trekking at around 10 am. As the first half of the trek is quite steep, we decided to hire the pony’s for all of us up to Aadhkuari. The next half trip was taken on foot. This was much better that what I had taken in the past – some 10 years back. That used be a steep stretch – the new one was more of a plain. The kids were comfortable and we reached Bhawan – the holy abode of the deity, well in time.

While I have always liked long walks, it was somewhat special this time. I enjoyed these walks with my daughters. Talking with them about various things – I had never had such long 5-6 hour exclusive time with them for quite a long time I suppose. While Kritika, the younger one was her usual enthusiastic self, the older one, Smriti had good insights into the realities of life.

On the way back, we discussed about how these pony-wallahs and the Pitthu’s (the one’s who carry your luggage or even carry some kids and elderly folks on their back) carry loads on their back on such steep treks. We also discussed as to how the incomes of such people who solely depend on manual labour depend solely on their health. If they don’t eat well and if they don’t keep good health, they are out of job. And how long can they work? Whether the Shrine Board has any pension policy for these people – who facilitate the divine audience with the deity to hundreds of people every day.

As I spoke to some of these boys, I realized that they come from far flung areas of the state – as far as Poonch – Rajouri, as they do not get any other opportunities for work there. And it is interesting to note that most of these people are Muslims and they facilitate all their Hindu clients to fulfill their religious aspirations. A good example of a serene confluence for independent socio-religious demands.
The return trip was quick – we had a very good ‘darshan’ of Vaishno Devi and were charged up to get back to Delhi. The kids were excited on the way back and we completed the trek very comfortably. The prospect of a brief stop-over at Café Coffee Day on the way back, somewhere mid-way on the trek, could have made the descend that much more easier, I suppose.

Overall, we enjoyed – the kids enjoyed the trek, I enjoyed their company, but we missed Poonam. She will surely have another opportunity soon. But she was happy that we all could make it to the deity and so half the promise was kept. I am sure, the deity will be generous enough to facilitate another occasion for Poonam to have the holy ‘darshan’ of Hers.