Wednesday, February 10, 2021

My fascination with the Indian Railways

 

A long 48-hour train journey from Kanpur to Chennai and then, after a brief hiatus there, onward to Tirunageswaram (near Kumbakonam), was a regular feature of our summer vacations. Since none of my friends in Kanpur had ever carried out such a long train journey, I tended to enjoy the trip to the fullest to be able to brag about it to them on my return.

There was no direct train from Kanpur to Chennai in those days. We would take a short trip to Jhansi and then catch a train coming from Delhi en route to Chennai. The stay over at Jhansi would be as long as 5-6 hours and we would hop from one platform to another to get  full experience of the large and busy railway station. On the way to Chennai, there were big junctions, a station with a large turntable to reverse the direction of the engine, the thick forests and the long tunnels through the expansive Vindhyachal range in Madhya Pradesh, which would be at the pinnacle of its beauty during the rainy season. The last attraction would be the long bridge over the Krishna river just after the Vijayawada railway station. And of course the grand and majestic Chennai Central where the railway tracks ended – giving us a feeling of covering the entire length of the country.

Once in our village Tepperumanallur (quite a tongue twister for my friends), which was just behind the Tirunageswarm railway station, our lives would be confined to one long street called Agraharam, with some 70-80 houses, a small market with 5-7 shops, two temples, an old style ancestral house with a deep well,  a large 100-meter long backyard that had a number of trees and the railway station. In the evenings, of course, we would take a train to Kumbakonam, which was the next station or would walk down to Tirunageswarm town, which was about 2 kilometers away and had some very famous temples, including our Kuladevi – Girigujambal.

A cousin of mine, we called him Narasu Attan (Narasimhan N), was working as a Station Master for the southern railways and used to have his duty shift across 3 stations on a roster. Tirunageswaram was one of the stations, other than Kumbakonam and Darasuram, where he would have his duty scheduled and we brothers would have a gala time at the station the whole day.

The day would start around 8:30 AM when all our local friends would take a train for their schools and colleges in Kumbakonam. The summer vacations ended in early June there unlike in Kanpur where it extended till early July. We would join them up to the station and then spend most of the day time observing all the action at the station. There were two platforms and one direct line for the express trains to pass through. The signal cabin was just across the platform and based on which lever the signal man pulled, our friends will predict as to which platform the train would come to. That was called a ‘Point’ and based on that the loop line would connect to one platform or the other. Sometimes we would go along the line, up to the ‘Point’ to see how the track shifted from mail line to the loop line. It used to be quite exciting to say the least.

The passing through of Cholan Express was another site that we enjoyed immensely. The signal man was also responsible for handing over the ‘Key’ – a metallic ball tied to a large ring made of bamboo shoots. The train would approach at a speed of some 100 KMPH and this man would stand on a small platform along the third line. The engine driver will take his one hand out in style and just put that through the large ring and the metallic ‘key’ would get passed on to the driver. That was his license to cross the station.  And then Narasu Attan would pick up the phone handle from the cradle of a large communication unit and announce to the man at the other end in Kumbakonam in style – ‘TRM Cleared’. TRM was the station code for Tirunageswaram.  When it was time for the next train to come, we would wait for that instrument to ring again, the station master of the other station would convey some numbers that Attan would note diligently in a large register, press some levers in that machine that would then drop that metallic ball. He would then call the signal man sitting outside the room to take the ball and prepare for the exchange of the ‘key’ through that wooden ring.

The same action in the night would be an amazing scene. Many a night, there would be no power supply. The man would then come up to the raised platform with the ‘Key’ ring in one hand and a large flambeau in his other hand. The flames of that torch, dancing in the blowing wind, gave the impression of a phantomic hero standing in the dark. And then in a flash, the driver of that Tuticorin Express would bring out his head and the left hand, bend down a little, and just put his hands through the ring to snatch the ‘Key’ from this signal man, blowing the long whistle all along, at a breathtaking speed of 100 KMPH. It was a heroic operation that we never got bored of watching every day.

During the afternoons, when there were no trains, we would enact the same sequence in our long backyard by making that ring out of very thin bamboo shoots and attaching a ‘key’ made of very small coconut buds that had dropped from the coconut tree all over the backyard. My brother and I would have some fights if I were not allowed the equal number of opportunities to play the driver role, while he played the signal man. With no modern electronic gadgets and devices, these vicarious pleasures made our holidays most enjoyable in that tiny village.

Earlier this week, I got a message from Kumbakonam that Narasu Attan, who had settled down there post his retirement some 15-20 years back, had passed away. I had met him in December last when I visited the place for the divine darshan of my family deity. He was as affectionate as he had always been. He was preparing for his son’s engagement. After the death of his wife a few years back, he wanted to complete this one responsibility of seeing through his son’s marriage. After waiting for covid to recede, the marriage was finally solemnized a month back.  Despite his age, he was at his enthusiastic and energetic best during the marriage, I am told. But he fell sick immediately after the marriage and could not recover. The sad news of his demise brought back all my old childhood memories spent in the village and my amazement at the well-oiled process of the railway system.  And I imagined a very content Narasu Attan standing in front of that machine in Kumbakonam and declaring – KMU cleared. RIP Narasu Attan and thanks for making my childhood vacations so enjoyable and memorable.

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